Certain forms of Vitamin C can irritate the skin when it is compromised, which is why it is important to understand the differences. Not all Vitamin C is the same. The form we use in AcuLift’s Superb Serum is Calcium Ascorbate, also known as Ester-C, which is a gentler and more stable form of Vitamin C. It was carefully selected because it supports the skin’s healing process without the irritation that can be associated with other forms, such as L-ascorbic acid.
There are many types of Vitamin C used in skincare, each with different properties. Here is a direct excerpt from my book, Treating the Face: A Comprehensive Guide for Acupuncturists and Health Professionals, describing the various forms:
Vitamins and Antioxidants
Vitamin C is an effective skincare ingredient known for its antioxidant and brightening properties. It comes in various forms in skincare products, each with its advantages and considerations. Here are some common forms of vitamin C used in skin care:
- L-ascorbic acid: The purest and most potent form of vitamin C used in skin care. Highly effective at neutralizing free radicals, brightening the skin, and promoting collagen production. However, when exposed to air and light, it can be unstable and prone to oxidation, so it often needs special packaging to maintain efficacy. Some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation with higher concentrations of L-ascorbic acid.
- Ascorbyl palmitate: Fat-soluble form of vitamin C; more stable than L-ascorbic acid. It can be effective as an antioxidant but may not penetrate the skin as deeply as other forms of vitamin C. Often used in oil-based skincare products.
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: Stable water-soluble form of vitamin C. It is less likely to cause skin irritation and can effectively brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines—a good choice for those with sensitive skin.
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: Water soluble and stable. It is known for its brightening effects and may help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and age spots.
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate: An oil-soluble vitamin C derivative that effectively penetrates the skin’s lipid barrier. Stable and less likely to irritate. Often used in anti-aging products.
- Ethyl ascorbic acid: Stable and highly bioavailable form of vitamin C. Known for its brightening and antioxidant properties. Often used in products targeting uneven skin tone.
- Ascorbic glucoside: Another stable form of vitamin C. Slowly converts to L-ascorbic acid when absorbed into the skin, gradually releasing vitamin C over time. It can be suitable for sensitive skin.
- Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: Lipid-soluble; enhances collagen production.
- Sodium ascorbate: Water soluble, antioxidant.
- L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate: Stable; reduces oxidative stress.
- 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid: Stable; brightening.
- Calcium ascorbate (Ester-C): Antioxidant; supports collagen synthesis.
- Isopropyl ascorbyl palmitate: Antioxidant; stable.
Calcium ascorbate (Ester-C) was chosen for the Superb Serum because it aligns perfectly with the serum’s other ingredients, which include plant-based hyaluronic acid and marine collagen. Both hyaluronic acid and marine collagen perform best in a slightly acidic to neutral pH range. Calcium ascorbate has a neutral to slightly alkaline pH, which helps preserve the stability and effectiveness of these ingredients without risking irritation. Unlike pure L-ascorbic acid, which can destabilize formulations and irritate freshly microneedled skin, calcium ascorbate remains stable, provides antioxidant protection, and supports collagen synthesis without causing redness or inflammation.
Additionally, calcium ascorbate maintains its integrity longer, meaning the serum is less likely to oxidize or lose potency quickly. This ensures that the Superb Serum remains effective over time, delivering hydration, protecting the skin barrier, and supporting natural collagen production during the critical healing window after microneedling. In short, while not all Vitamin C is safe immediately post-microneedling, the form we use—Ester-C—is specifically selected to be both effective and appropriate for supporting the skin’s recovery in a gentle, stable, and clinically appropriate manner.